"MODEL NEWS"
Has new correct "Mr. NORMS" decals
for our '65 Ply AFX ! .............. 
#SC-35 ..... $48.00
#SC-59 ........ $6.00
These new
7" Cheater Slicks are the only "accurate" NHRA approved slick
to use for the S/S (Super Stock class).
Cars like the.... '64 Ramchargers Dodge , Color Me Gone, Thunderbolts, Bel
Airs (Old Reliable), GTO's, Passionate Poncho, Etc.
Has
just finished the new Sox & Martin "BACCARUDA" decals......Scaled
to fit our
'66 Barracuda AWB Funny Car Body !
#SC-11
We
would also like to welcome a new decal company........
"Decals by Chuck "
The owner is Chuck Boerner and is currently selling new decals for our 70/'74
CUDA FUNNY CAR body.
He sells on eBay, but you can contact him direct at: stang1forever@yahoo.com
Don"The
Snake" Prudhomme Cuda F/C
Don"The
Snake" Prudhomme Black Cuda F/C
"TENNESSEE BO-WEEVIL"
Cuda F/C
Whipple & McCulloch Cuda F/C
You
can see what these cars look like on the "MOPAR" page, under.....
'70/'74 CUDA FUNNY CAR......... it's at the bottom of the page.
Has new
correct decals for our "Flying Dutchman" Topless
Long
Dart............ 
Has new
correct decals for our
"Flying Dutchman" Charger III Funny Car....... 
I've
built a lot of altered wheel base cars, and
though some of them used a dropped tube axle found in some kits.
the most impossible to find, was a straight tube axle !
A lot of customers have emailed me and asked if I would cast one in resin
?
Well, here is the reasons why we don't, or cant cast them.
1. All cars have a different width, so a single tube
axle would not fit all car bodies.
2. Depending on which mag wheel you use, it would alter the distance from the width (fender to fender).
3.
The tie rods and spindles are too small & too thin.... and would break
easily.
Real 1/1 tube axle's are 3" tube, to scale a 3/32" Plastruct Hollow
Tubing is used.
(we will show you why hollow tube works best later in
the article).
0.45" Plastruct Round Rod is used for the spindle axles, drill holes
through the main axle.
( This will be for the spindles to pivot on ).
This is how it should look when finished (notice the
spindle axles are not even) it doesn't matter, because later the axle
will be cut in half !
The "SLIDE BARS"
that come in these "Sliding bar report covers" found at Staples will
be used for the Spindles.
My wife bought these a long time ago, and asked me if I could use them.........
could I ever !
(You may be able to purchase these individually) ?
Cut a piece off the "SLIDE
BAR" about a 1/4" wide.
Now cut off the ends of the
"SLIDER BAR", this will be used for the Spindles.
Drill pilot holes holes in the top & bottom and the center of the Spindle,
then open it up with a 0.45" drill bit.
Round off the ends of the
spindle, this will help with its
rotation.
Small flat
head (assortment pack) nails can be found in any
hardware store.
The nail will be used for the spindle axle.
Depending on
what mag wheel your using, measure how long the Nail should be cut.
Slip the "SLIDER BAR" (THE
NEW SPINDLE) onto the straight tube axle.
Because the "Slider bar" has an angle to it, it will not come off
when put on........ an added bonus!
Here's how everything looks so far.
You can see that the Straight tube axle is way too long.
You will need to measure as to how far you want the tires to set back in the
wheel well.
Cut the tube in half, glue a paper clip in one end of the hollow straight tube
(this is why you need a hollow tube).
Now put the tires back on and make a new final measurement, mark on the hollow
tube where your cuts should be.
Glue the other side of the paper clip in the other end of the straight tube
axle, make sure that the spindles
are even & straight.
I'm cutting the steering arms
off the tie rod from the Hemi Under Glass kit, although you can use whatever
steering arms you want or you can scratch build your own.
Drill 0.45" holes in
the ends of the steering arms.
Use the same 0.45" Round Rod for the Tie Rod.
Carefully & slowly heat the rod (I use a small candle), and make a straight
bend over a file or ruler.
Set the spindles straight on the axle and mark where the other bend should be.
Use a lighter to melt the ends of the tie rod and flatten with the metal end
of the lighter.
(THIS NEEDS TO BE DONE FAST, AS YOU DONT WANT TO WARP
THE STEERING ARMS) !!!
I actually set mine on fire for a fraction of a second.
Now were going to set
the ride height. This is the most challenging of the build....
but still fun !
Since
this model has 1/4 elliptic springs, were going to set the height, by making
shocks first (you may want to add your springs before
adding shocks as it may be easier).
Place something under the chassis to hold up the front of the model, as to how
high or low you want the front of the model to sit.
Mark on the frame, where to put the shock mounts, cut small pieces of plastic
strip (hanging over the frame).
Glue the plastic strip to the frame, and drill 0.45" holes (for
the shock ends to fit into).
Now its time to make our own shocks !
Using the same 3/32" Tube from the straight axle, and 0.45" Steering
Rod, start by using the 0.45" Rod, slide the rod through the holes on the
shock mounts (on the frame) to meet the Straight
Axle. Glue the 0.45 Rod to the axle.
Now remove the entire Tube Axle Suspension, add 3/32" tube to the middle
of the 0.45" Rod, (for the main shock unit)
creating new shocks !
Here's how your new front tube straight axle may look like before painting.
Its up to you, as to how much detail you want to put into it !
You can also add steering linkage using the same method.
If you WANT your wheels to roll:
Put a ring of grease around
the metal axle on the base of the spindle.
( don't get grease on the nail, or the glue wont stick )
Drop small amount of super glue in the hole of the mag wheel,
apply mag wheel to axle and hold down nail head down for 60 seconds.
If you DONT WANT your wheels to roll:
Super
glue the mag wheel straight to the metal axle.
Here's the suspension painted, to be used on our '66 Ply Valiant Funny Car "The
Hairy Canary".
I hope to have encouraged some of you with this "TRUE & TRIED" simple method of doing your own Straight Tube Axle.
As always.......... Happy Modeling !
