....
The Revell / Monogram
'34 Ford 3-window Coupe 1/24 scale would have been an easy alteration.
Since
there are no other altered models made in 1/24 scale
this model should be made into 1/25 scale !
These are the two best
1/25 scale contenders for this project, but they both have their issues.
The Revell Snap-Tite has a chopped roof, that will need to be stock height
and the amt '34 Ford has poor body definition, trim defects and an incorrect
fitting hood.
This model will need a lot of puttying and new trim around all the body
sides.
After wasting time &
money on re-altering the Snap-Tite roof to stock height, we discoved that
the door lines & roof pillar is on a wrong angle.
That project was scraped and we moved to the vintage amt '34 Ford kit.
The first thing that needs to be fixed is the rear part of roof. The roof
sinks in the middle (a factory flaw) and it will also make the rear pillar
look thicker, the original rear window had no detail anyway.
The poor looking trim was also sanded off from the body and the first application
of putty was used.
More Putty !
The window trim you see
is from an amt '34 Ford 5-window Coupe. This will be fitted into the roof.
The window trim needs to be raised another 2", so plastic square tube
was used.
This will need a lot of attention !
Now I'm starting to get annoyed and am looking back at the other purple
'34............ what to do ?
This new rear window trim will look more authentic than all the rest of
the '34 Ford models out there !
Comparing this body to photos, the nose piece needs to be re-shaped.
The lower half of the
hood needs to be re- sculpted........ more putty !
Again, I'm looking back at the purple '34 !
8 coats of putty was applied to the hood, cowl and radiator shell, sanding
in between each coat.
6 scale inches were removed from the radiator shell.
The Caricature Line or / Belt Line was then added with .020 X .040 plastic
strip and a grill filler was installed.
The Grill Filler was made from .010 plastic sheet and will need to be
cut out by the builder (leave a lip for gluing the clear grill).
The Hood was removed from the body and plastic sheet was added to the inside
of the body for a hood support. The radiator was re-cut and re-straitened.
The side of the grill was too curved, so it was cut and brought back to
being more straight.
Wanting to add a correct "SCOOP" , I first needed to know the
size of the intake manifold and what small block Chevy Hilborn manifold
to use? (another part that's missing from our hobby). I found an old Sprint
Car Manifold that could be modified. Studying photos I came up with a perfect
Hood Scoop.
The Hood is finally finished with only some minor flaws to fix.
The Vintage Hilborn Manifold is for a small block 283 - 350 Chevy.
Unfortunately, I lost all my Small Block Chevy Manifold "In-Progress"
photos.
Going back to the manifold,
16 set screws were added along with some mounting pins.
The Chevy Small Block Hilborn Injection Manifold Master is complete. This
part will be sold separately very soon.
Directing attention back to the body, a template of the shape for the inverted
wheel well was made and used to cut out the original body panels.
Using the same template, new back panels were made with .040 sheet and .040
strip was used as the sides.
These will need to be shaped to fit the inside of the body.
New wheel wells !
The whole time I've been working on this build, I've been noticing the wind
shield.
It looks like it has a V- angle, and is more raked than a stock '34 Ford
Coupe........ (see photo).
After reading a new article from Mike Sleeth's web site www.lilscreamer2.com
the new owner of the Lil' Screamer and Mike Bridgeman's site www.home.earthlink.net/~mikebridgeman
who
helped restore the car.
It states
that the window and cowl was replaced with a '37 Ford.
What ? Really ? I wish I would have known that sooner, it would have been
my first alteration, so I could re-shape the '34 hood to the '37 cowl, this
is really bad news as all the work to the original cowl was a waste of time.
The chrome wind shield ring was removed from the '37.
The '37 Ford windshield is 6 inches wider than the '34, so rather than split
the window on each side to remove 3" per side, its much easier to add
plastic to the sides and re-shape later.
Getting ready for the new '37 Ford wind shield installation.
Plastic strip was added to the sides of the windshield frame to correct
for the new raked angle.
The '37 Ford cowl needed to be re-shaped and the sides of the cowl were
re-puttied.
Another new hood support had to be made......... This is the 2nd time !
This is a very important process that was overlooked last time.
The hood, cowl and sides all had to be re-sanded to make it all even, so
the hood will lay down even all around.
A windshield support is being added......... this is no easy task !
But this way the builder can easily install clear blue windows.
Revell "MISS DEAL" Funny Car (Blue tinted glass) can be used in
case you don't have any blue clear plastic sheet around.
STAY TUNED FOR MORE !
1966
OLDS TORONADO
( Stock & Drag Versions )
Our
original intent was to make the "Terrifying Toronado" drag car
only, but we know the stock builders would only want
the stock version which would need to come with parts that wouldn't be necessary
for the drag version......... It was very confusing to figure it all out
. Anyway , here's what we propose.........
An original Johan 1966
Olds Toronado Friction Promotional Model Car will be used for this project.
Since this '66 Toronado will be used for both stock & drag versions,
we'll need to figure out which parts to use that the other version wont
use ?......... in other words if your buying the "Drag version"
you wont end up with "stock version" parts you will never use
(such as hub caps, etc.)
Footnote: The 1966 Toronado
was offered by Johan as a 1/25 model kit. It has never been re-issued and
is a very rare model
and took 3 1/2 years to acquire the promo you see here.
....................................................................................................................................................
The original hood was
cut out and removed from the body.
The plan is to use a '67 Toronado hood from a different mpc kit since it
has nice underside detail (hard to see in the photo).
Using the white hood as a thickness guide between hood and sides, new hood
supports were installed using plastic strip. The new hood will fit perfect
!
Here's the new mpc hood
on the Johan body.
The Promo hubcaps had
to be altered, so they can be used on the '66 Olds 442 (donor kit).
The thick axles were removed and the rims cut off. They were all sanded
to be as thin as scale hubcaps.
After an extensive search, we could not find any kit wheels to match those
on the real car.
So
we had to hand craft them.
It's too hard to describe......... so here's a photo.
A new
"HALIBRAND INDY 500 SPEED WHEELS"
master.
Were staring this project
with an amt/ertl Daisy Dukes CI Jeep.
Comparing it to the Secret Weapon Funny Car and some 1965 Stock Jeeps, I
noticed the rear was too long and there wasn't enough room for decal lettering
on the side of the door area for the Secret Weapon Jeep, So plastic strip
was ran up the front of the wheel well and the rear of the stock wheel well
was cut back to shape.
This set the wheels back another inch and a 1/2.
Also:
The trunk of the jeep was way too long, so 6 scale inches were cut and removed
from the rear.
The recess' on the sides all needed to be filled in, along with adding sheet
plastic to the top edge of the body. The tail gate was filled in using .080
plastic sheet.
After reading an article
from Popular HOT RODDING Nov.1966, it makes mention of the original Wheelbase
measuring 102"........ I used these measurements for all the Wheel
Base alterations.
The original cowl being 12 scale inches, another 12" plastic sheet
was then added to the mid-section of the hood and the cowl to give it
the stretch it needed....... and putting it in the middle added strength,
so the hood
will retain its shape.
The original hood and cowl were too wide for the body at the rear,
so a pie shaped 4" cut was removed and the 2-pieces were re-glued
(although a filler strip was added to the center of the cuts).
All other holes were filled in and a plastic strip was added the the rear
of the hood.
The hood is made up of 13 separate pieces, all reshaped and sanded smooth.
The front of the door entry was cut up to the bottom of the floorboards,
this made sense, since the firewall would end at the front of the door.
After reviewing the wheelbase, it being 102", the body needed to
be stretched another 18"..... this was re-checked using tires and
mag wheels for accuracy.
The front of the fenders needed to be thicker, (as you could see a gap
between the hood and the fenders) so Evercoat putty was used.
The bottom of the doors were too short also (keeping in mind the Champion
sticker & Driver/Owner names needed to fit), another scale 2"
were added using. 060 X .080 plastic strip.
A firewall was made from .060 plastruct sheet, a secondary firewall was
made for the basis of the rear section of the Dog House.
The sides of the Dog
House were made with .040 plastruct sheet.
The Dog House is now starting to take shape.
The head light buckets were drilled out and the original holes of the
signal lights were filled in with super glue as a quick filler.
Now, for some reason, the original grill was flat in the front and rounded
in the back (a factory flaw).
The grill was reversed, so the the rounded edges now facing front.
An all new grill with blocked-out head lights and marker lights.
The original
chassis was cut in two, so we can add the 18" stretch to match the
body.
This will be done using 2- pieces of .060 plastruct
strip, super gluing them together to get the thickness of the original
frame rails and then adding 18 scale inches to both sides.
Here's the chassis and body after all the clean
up.
I wanted to add motor mounts and tranny mounts on the new frame to fit the
Miss Deal 392 Hemi, but after searching for a good "DIRECT DRIVE HOUSING"..........
I couldn't come up with a correct one, in any model kit.
So it was decided to build a new correct one based
on a "HENRY'S DIRECT DRIVE BELL HOUSING".
This
is another part that is missing from our hobby!
We will be adding it to the production line as a single part very soon.
The Secret
Weapon uses a "SCOTT INJECTOR"
This new piece will be made and sold separately.
Starting with a Scoop
from the Revell Tony Nancy 22 jr. kit, it was completely re-shaped.
The Injector unit was
created with plastic square tube and toped off with actual nuts & bolts
for realism !
Here's
all the parts for the "SCOTT INJECTOR" and will come with this
model.
It will
also be sold as a separate piece on the web site !
The Master Model is finished!
#SC-
61 ......... $
We're starting out with
an amt/ertl Hogan's Heroes World War II Jeep.
After doing research for Jeeps on the internet, it was determined that this
Hogan's Heroes Jeep was based on a Willys M38 (the M stands for Military).
It's obvious that the rear of the bed and 1/4 panels were too long even
for the stock Jeep...... (see photo).
4 scale inches were removed
from the rear.
Now the stock Jeep body looks correct compared to the original body and
the full size Jeep !
The front clip was removed from the body, the "Speed Holes" on
the fenders were carefully measured and rounded out with a round jewelers
file. All seat mounts and injector marks were removed from interior floor,
as well as filling in the gun mounts on the side.
The cowl was filled in with plastic and then a drip rail was added to the
front of the cowl.
The headlight holes were filled in with .010 plastic sheet.
the marker lights were ground down, holes were drilled and the plastic sheet
was counter sunk to match the headlights.
To make the Destroyer hood, it needed to be shorter, narrower and also had
to be straitened, as the stock Jeep hood has a raked shape. The Destroyer
Jeep Funny Car hood is completely square.
So, the hood was cut in half and 3 1/2 scale inches were removed from the
front and 8" were taken from the rear of the hood.
Plastic strip was added to the sides of the hood, to match the contour shape
of the grill.
The hood is supposed to go over the grill, but because of the thickness,
it looks way out of scale.
You can use this hood as a template if you want to add real aluminum sheet,
it could then hang over the grill.
The article states the
car was stretched 30", so 30" body panels were added using .040
plastic sheet.
All pedals and wires were removed from both sides of the Firewall. and a
secondary Firewall was made from 0.40 plastic sheet, with all roll bar holes
& steering wheel hole in the correct displacement.
The grill didnt fit properly, so 7 new pieces of plastic strip were added
to The front of the grill around the fenders.
The battery recess was also filled in with plastic sheet.
The original Jeep frame was stretched 30" to match the body.
The back bumper supports were removed, along with the original motor mounts.
Using a Revell 392 Miss Deal Hemi, it was determined where the motor mounts
and transmission bracket needed to be relocated.
The back of the frame rails needed to be raised, by using plastic strips
to fill the gaps, and the spring brackets were cut off and re-set back to
the raised frame rails. The ends of the frame rails were all boxed in using
plastic strip.
You can see here how nice the new frame fits.
We will also be adding the springs from the Hogan's Heroes Jeep, so no donor
kit will be needed !
Just add your own rear end and front dropped axle.
After all the major body work, we went back to put in bolt heads on the
fabricated panels.... a nice extra detail !
THE MASTER IS FINISHED!
#SC- 60 ......... $
We will be revising and casting a Revell "Miss Deal" 392 Hemi
Engine to have in our product line,
so you don't have to buy a complete Miss Deal F/C kit just to dig out that
awesome 392 Hemi !
No aftermarket or model company has ever made a correct 7" or 9" Cheater Slick....... until now !
Starting
with an old Racemaster Super Stock 9" plastic drag slicks from an unknown
kit ?
The reason was clear, it not only has the correct 9" width, but is
very rare and would make a great contender for a
new cheater slick, and its not quite a Pie Crust type slick, but it does
have nice side wall line detail !
The surface was sanded down smooth & Straight, and to retain a 30"
diameter after we add 0.10 thick plastic strip.
Two .010 X .125 Evergreen plastic strips were added to each side, carefully
glued on with plastic cement.
A center strip of 0.80 Evergreen strip was added to the center, creating
2 small empty lines...... the new Cheater lines.
To create the 7" Cheater Slick, we used the other pair of slicks and
cut it down the middle, removing 2 scale inches from the center, after carefully
measuring around all the surface, the 2 - pieces were glued together.
.010 X .080 was used for each side, then a piece of .010 X .100 was used
in the center, creating new empty Cheater lines.
Each
Cheater line was re-scribed to perfection.
A
special thanks to Dennis Havlicek for his extensive research on NHRA approved
Cheater Slicks !
Starting with
an old MOROSO CHEVY big block valve cover ( from an unknown kit ? )
it had the correct size and bolt pattern. The top of this valve cover was
sanded flat with a slight angle.
This valve cover (on top) was considered a BBC, (some resin company's are
selling this valve cover as a Big Block, but its way too narrow, too short,
too thin and lacks major details !
The M/T scripts
were cut out from it, and are going to be added to our new BBC VALVE COVER
MASTER.
Now comes the hard part
!
After sanding down the M/T logo to fit flush, I wanted to use 0.10 X 0.10
plastic strip, but neither Plastruct or Evergreen made a strip that small,
so I had to use .010 X .040, the. 010 side was glued to the V.C. to create
the cooling fins.......... these will be sanded down to. 010 tall.
A piece of .010X. 040 was applied on its side to be used for the center
flat spot.
The
master is finished !
The oil cap plug and 427 script plug was added by
hollowing out tubing and adding another smaller tube slightly lower.....
although I didn't add the 427 letters (you wouldn't"t be able to read
it anyway).
This is the most accurate BBC valve cover ever made
and will be available to you very soon !
These
Slicks are being designed by Ron Ramsey & Scott Kapellusch
Ron Ramsey had some original Johan Firestone Drag 500 Slicks, the problem
is.....
is that they are lettered FIRESTONE one one side, and GOODYEAR on the other.
Another problem is that they are too small in diameter and have no side
wall detail.
We
wanted to create an all new correct FIRESTONE DRAG 500 SLICK
lettered on both sides with correct diameter and side wall detail !
THESE WILL FIT A STOCK WHEEL WELL ON ANY S/S BARRACUDA, CHARGER, DART, ROAD RUNNER, ETC !
Ron cast the FIRESTONE
500 side from the Johan Slicks.... (as they had GOODYEAR on the other side).
The slicks were too small in diameter, so I added .020 plastic strip around
the surface of the tread area.
This not only did this makes it a bigger diameter, but will also serve as
the detail edge of the slick.
.010 plastic sheet was added to one side of the slick ( this is to aid in
the molding process).
The two sides of the FIRESTONE slicks were glued together, making sure it
was 10.50 all around.
Ron and I agreed, that the slick would be cool to have a curved crown effect
on the tread surface !
At first I tried
to use masking tape with different sizes to create a bulge effect, but it
didn't work out well, so the slick was taped off
on both sides of the side wall and a home made tool was made from plastic
sheet to be used as a putty spreader.
After some carefully sanding, here is the new crowned surface.
The Slick was primed, checked for imperfections and re-worked, all work
was done under a magnifying glass !
THE MASTER IS FINISHED !
NOW AVAILABLE !
Starting with our Chevy Hilborn
Manifold, the injectors were removed and new holes were drilled for plastic
tubes (to be used as straight tube injectors).
The tubes were cut to size and
tension rings were added with .010 plastic strip.
All nut & screw heads were added, along with Throttle end caps.
Starting with some old plastic
stacks, one side of each tube had the flare cut off and .010 plastic strip
was added. This is so the tubes can be fit flush together.
So here's were it gets tricky......
the stacks we show here are straight tubes with a flare at the end, our
new "Ram Tubes" need to be cone shaped.
So the stacks were mounted to paper clips and puttied along the sides of
the tube (this is so it can be handled while puttying & sanding).
this was not easy and one mistake would have been disastrous !
Here are the new "cone shaped"
tubes after they were sanded smooth.
The tubes were glued together,
but were too long, so they were measured and cut.
Not shown, but the tubes also had to be re-puttied between the tubes, for
a better look.
Here are the new "RAM TUBES" and finished Enderle Manifold.
99 separate parts were used to
create this Enderle Manifold & Ram Tubes.
12 pieces had to be filled with putty, that's 111 steps to make this master.
THE
MASTER IS FINISHED !
( Ram Tubes will be 4 separate pieces )
Enderle Chevy Manifold & Ram Tubes were never offered in model form.......... until now !!!
THIS WILL BE THE FIRST '68 BARRACUDA FUNNY CAR EVER MADE !
Our
goal is to give you an accurate body to represent a true '68 Barracuda F/C
Body
as the Polar Lights body is not correct, not even for what they show on
their box art !
The Polar Lights Body is a Stretched, Flattened, '69 Cuda body, also having
inaccurate proportions.
I took these photos of the Polar Lights Cuda Body and our '68 Barracuda
stock body, you can see the changes in body shapes. Notice the front 1/4
panels are sloped on the stock '68 body, notice the roundness on the stock
'68 body, notice the POWER BULGES on the stock '68 hood, notice the Polar
Lights body is a '69 Barracuda !
After removing all the Emblems,
Marker Lights, Wiper Blades, Door Handles & all Body Trim.
The
Louver Holes were taped off.
this is so there will be no mistakes when we fill it with putty.
The putty was sanded down to the tape, again, so NO
mistakes are made.
The Vent holes were done the same way !
I had to re-tape & re-putty the power bulges, to give them more of a
rounded arch, as I wasn't happy with the first result's.
The front wheel alteration was started by putting
the bumper on to get an idea of how far to bring the wheel well up. The
cut line looks slanted, but it is straight as all alterations are measured
with the body flat on a table and measured along the panel, it was measured
1' 9" along the top of the panel.
The rear wheel well was much harder to do, as it had to be widened !
After
measuring a Polar Lights Slick compared to the original wheel well, we determined
that the Barracuda wheel well will need to be widened 4 scale inches.
4" was left on the middle of the master body, and the front of the
wheel well was cut out.
Then from a spare body, the new section of the wheel well was cut in the
middle of the wheel well, when installed it will give me 2" on each
side, after the rear section was put on....... we now have a 4" wider
wheel well !
Here's the new wheel well alterations !
notice the body is still stock length, we will keep it that way, as the
only one that was stretched was the "Virginian".
The Chrome rings around the wheel wells were also removed,
as none of the funny cars had chrome trim around wheel wells !
( For some reason the Polar Lights body has them ) ?.......Dam that thing
is awful !!!!
Some cars have wheel wells that are "Hogged out"
or have a different shape, or have a flare around it, with this wheel well,
you'll be able to create any look or shape you desire for any particular
car you want to build !
The Valance was filled in with .040 sheet plastic, the Grill recess' were
filled in with .010 sheet plastic.
( You will need to cut the Grill recess' out if using the stock grill ).
The rear Valance was also filled with .040 sheet plastic.
The taillights were carefully filled in with putty and all emblems were
sanded from the trunk panel.
All window chrome trim was carefully cut out, then. 010 plastic sheet was
added to the under side.
This will act as the new recessed window trim found
on fiberglass Funny Cars ( to mount the clear Plexiglas to ).
New window recess' are
finished.
Also, .020 x .020 Plastic strip was added to the top of the side windows.
Here you can see the window trim on the inside of the body and the smoothed
out puttied areas.
I had hoped to use the rear window of the PL model, but they did some weird
re-shaping of their rear window, and I needed to do ours correct. So, you
will need to use .010 or .020 clear plastic for all the windows.
We want to give you the option of a Blocked out grill
area, so we started with a stock '68 Grill and filled
it with Ever coat putty.
The grills were separated and sanded to match the angles of the original
grill shell.
This will make it easy for a grill filler.
We wanted to give you a separate rear spoiler (as
not all cars ran a spoiler),
and after looking at the Polar Lights Cuda,
we decided to make a better one from scratch. So after digging around, we
started with a '66 Corvair rear trunk (with spoiler), cut it off the trunk
lid, and re-shaped it to fit our new Barracuda trunk.
How's this for a perfect fit !
This new spoiler has a better angle and looks more correct to what the real
cars were running.
Master Model is finished
Compare
our Speed City Body (on the right) to the Polar Lights body
They look like two completely different bodies,
ours being "correct" of course !
This is the first '68 Barracuda Funny Car in model
history !
Finally, we can all build a correct '68 Barracuda F/C.
And with all the extra Front & Rear body parts, there is more than 30
ways to build this Funny Car !
Resin
kit will include:
* Correct 1968 Barracuda Funny Car Body
* Two separate style Front Spoiler's...... ( not all
cars ran a spoiler )
* Separate Rear Air Foil..... ( not all cars ran a rear air foil )
* Stock '68 Grills..... ( with block out headlights )
* Angled Grill Blockouts...... ( some cars had blocked out grill areas )
* Separate Bumpers...... ( as some cars didn't run with bumpers )
A Polar Lights Barracuda F/C will be needed for a donor kit !
It
would have been so much easier to do this in 1/24 scale, as those Jaguar
kits are more available,
but we really wanted this to be in 1/25 scale
if possible !
This photo shows the original
1/25 Revell Jaguar convertible kit and the "Aurora 1/25 Jaguar Hardtop"
reissued by (Revell-Monogram) in 1998.
The Aurora hardtop body looks great, but the nose doesn't look half as good
as the Revell Jaguar convertible's.
So, the plan is....... to mesh
the Aurora Body with the Revell nose, to create the most accurate Jaguar
hardtop Funny Car body in 1/25 scale.
We removed the B-pillars, door handles & windshield wipers, filled the
bumper holes, cut out some of the Rear valance and went over the Aurora
hardtop body with 320 grit sandpaper.
The rocker panels were cut from the chassis and glued to the body. We will
be removing an 1/8" from the bottom of the rocker panels.
We got the extra nose
clip from Aaron Dupont, and here it is molded to the stock nose.
2 scale inches were cut from the stock nose,because we need extra room for
sanding, we then added 2" to the rear of the nose, to make up for removing
the previous cut.
The nose has been stretched 20", just as the real car was !
The Head light bezels were installed and sanded to the fenders. Head light
block outs were carefully installed with a slight lip. Here's the nose all
puttied & Sanded.
The Rocker Panels were
too short to match the new Nose. So, I removed them, this also helped when
gluing the 2 body pieces together.
Cutting the Rocker Panels from the Revell Chassis' we glued both together
to get some added length.
New Rocker Panels !
Finally, the "hood
scoop" !
We filled all the bumper holes on the Valance, and filled the grill area
with a block out.
The first shot of the body in primer. It still needs some minor puttying
and sanding.
These photos and instructions will show how
to make your model of the Snoopy F/C
using a Model King "Kenz & Leslie Cougar" F/C for a donor
kit.
While waiting for an extra
nose piece, we decided to start on the interior tub.
But, before we can do an Interior Tub, we needed to make a mock up chassis.
First,
you'll need to shorten the Cougar F/C kit rear axle's, so the slicks you
use will fit the inside of the body.
This article shows
the Snoopy Jaguar chassis & Interior tub.
Although our Interior tub & Chassis wont be 100%
accurate, it will be close enough to do a decent build !
Starting with
an old mpc floor pan, and the trunk section from the Aurora Jaguar, we'll
be creating a new Interior / Firewall !
We started by cutting
off the front of the mpc floor pan, out about 8", the Aurora firewall
was traced out, then we added a new cowl. The Fender wells from the Aurora
Jag were cut from the original and glued to the mpc floor pan. Extra plastic
sheet was used to widen the fender wells, then the rear section of the Aurora
floor was added to the rear of the mpc floor pan, so it can hold up the
the body...... ( it sounds as confusing as it was to build ! )
The floor for the drivers seat needed to be lowered, so we went back to
cut it out and lowered it 6" using plastic strip & sheet.
The Firewall & Cowl
was carefully cut from the Interior Tub.
Here's the finished Interior
Tub & Firewall & Cowl !
The top of the
original Aurora windshield trim was too curved, so we puttied in the old
lines, and re-scribed new squared lines, this gives it a more aggressive
look !
lastly, we added the Speed Holes to the Trunk Door & Body.
Initially, the door was going to be a separate piece, but after reviewing,
I see problems occurring with the door edges warping, due to the top &
sides of the door are too thin.
You would still need to make door hinges, and for those who don't want to
spend the time, would glue it shut any way !
The door can be scribed out with an E-xacto blade, if you wish to make it
swing open !
The front suspension on the Kenz & Leslie Cougar F/C, didn't work for
a number of reasons, so were going back to create a new Front Frame with
a Spring Perch, and a Correct Tube Axle with Buggy Spring.
Starting with an mpc Front axle, we cut off the shock supports, cut the
axle back 8 scale inches on each side, New hollow tubes were glued to the
axle, and then we added new plastic tubes inside the hollow tubes for new
spindles.
The Spring came from a Revell Model A Pickup Truck axle, we cut the spring
from that axle and re-glued it to the mpc axle.
Because the spring sticks out too far, the Sway Bar will need to installed
behind the axle, so a small tube was added behind the tube axle, as a mounting
hole.
The Spring
Perch came from the Monogram Ford T Roadster, it was mounted to a square
tube (to be used as a front frame rail !
This is how the 2-pieces will look when attached to your model.
MASTER MODEL IS FINISHED !
#SC-48
Model is now Available !
We are including a set of American 12 Spoke Mag Wheels and vintage mpc Funny Car Cragar Mag Wheels !
