"IN PROGRESS"
Page 2
We "High
Polish" all our master models, due to the polishing process, no imperfections
can be left.
You will find no sink holes, parting lines, waves, dips or any other imperfections
that are
found on every other plastic model. Because of that, our resin bodies are:
BETTER
THAN PLASTIC KIT MODELS !
It would have
been so much easier to do this in 1/24 scale, as those Jaguar kits are more
available,
but we really wanted this to be in 1/25 scale
if possible !
This photo shows the original
1/25 Revell Jaguar convertible kit and the "Aurora 1/25 Jaguar Hardtop"
reissued by (Revell-Monogram) in 1998.
The Aurora hardtop body looks great, but the nose doesn't look half as good
as the Revell Jaguar convertible's.
So, the plan is....... to mesh the
Aurora Body with the Revell nose, to create the most accurate Jaguar hardtop
Funny Car body in 1/25 scale.
We removed the B-pillars, door handles & windshield wipers, filled the bumper
holes, cut out some of the Rear valance and went over the Aurora hardtop body
with 320 grit sandpaper.
The rocker panels were cut from the chassis and glued to the body. We will be
removing an 1/8" from the bottom of the rocker panels.
We got the extra nose clip
from Aaron Dupont, and here it is molded to the stock nose.
2 scale inches were cut from the stock nose,because we need extra room for sanding,
we then added 2" to the rear of the nose, to make up for removing the previous
cut.
The nose has been stretched 20", just as the real car was !
The Head light bezels were installed and sanded to the fenders. Head light block
outs were carefully installed with a slight lip. Here's the nose all puttied
& Sanded.
The Rocker Panels were too
short to match the new Nose. So, I removed them, this also helped when gluing
the 2 body pieces together.
Cutting the Rocker Panels from the Revell Chassis' we glued both together to
get some added length.
New Rocker Panels !
Finally, the "hood scoop"
!
We filled all the bumper holes on the Valance, and filled the grill area with
a block out.
The first shot of the body in primer. It still needs some minor puttying and
sanding.
These photos and instructions will show how to
make your model of the Snoopy F/C
using a Model King "Kenz & Leslie Cougar" F/C for a donor kit.
While waiting for an extra
nose piece, we decided to start on the interior tub.
But, before we can do an Interior Tub, we needed to make a mock up chassis.
First, you'll need to shorten the Cougar F/C kit rear axle's,
so the slicks you use will fit the inside of the body.
This article shows
the Snoopy Jaguar chassis & Interior tub.
Although our Interior tub & Chassis wont be 100% accurate,
it will be close enough to do a decent build !
Starting with an old
mpc floor pan, and the trunk section from the Aurora Jaguar, we'll be creating
a new Interior / Firewall !
We started by cutting off
the front of the mpc floor pan, out about 8", the Aurora firewall was traced
out, then we added a new cowl. The Fender wells from the Aurora Jag were cut
from the original and glued to the mpc floor pan. Extra plastic sheet was used
to widen the fender wells, then the rear section of the Aurora floor was added
to the rear of the mpc floor pan, so it can hold up the the body...... ( it
sounds as confusing as it was to build ! )
The floor for the drivers seat needed to be lowered, so we went back to cut
it out and lowered it 6" using plastic strip & sheet.
The Firewall & Cowl was
carefully cut from the Interior Tub.
Here's the finished Interior
Tub & Firewall & Cowl !
The top of the original
Aurora windshield trim was too curved, so we puttied in the old lines, and re-scribed
new squared lines, this gives it a more aggressive look !
lastly, we added the Speed Holes to the Trunk Door & Body.
Initially, the door was going to be a separate piece, but after reviewing, I
see problems occurring with the door edges warping, due to the top & sides
of the door are too thin.
You would still need to make door hinges, and for those who don't want to spend
the time, would glue it shut any way !
The door can be scribed out with an E-xacto blade, if you wish to make it swing
open !
The front suspension on the Kenz & Leslie Cougar F/C, didn't work for a
number of reasons, so were going back to create a new Front Frame with a Spring
Perch, and a Correct Tube Axle with Buggy Spring.
Starting with an mpc Front axle, we cut off the shock supports, cut the axle
back 8 scale inches on each side, New hollow tubes were glued to the axle, and
then we added new plastic tubes inside the hollow tubes for new spindles.
The Spring came from a Revell Model A Pickup Truck axle, we cut the spring from
that axle and re-glued it to the mpc axle.
Because the spring sticks out too far, the Sway Bar will need to installed behind
the axle, so a small tube was added behind the tube axle, as a mounting hole.
The Spring Perch
came from the Monogram Ford T Roadster, it was mounted to a square tube (to
be used as a front frame rail !
This is how the 2-pieces will look when attached to your model.
MASTER MODEL IS FINISHED !
#SC-48
Model is now Available !
We are including a set of American 12 Spoke Mag Wheels and vintage mpc Funny Car Cragar Mag Wheels !
Starting with our '65 Plymouth
Sedan AFX, we removed the roof, but left some body notches in for a better fit.
( this also helps for sanding and body strength ).
The '65 Dodge Coronet Hardtop ( that was mastered from an original amt Coronet
), roof was removed and the notches were lined up to the new Sedan roof.
Here is the '65 Plymouth Sedan roof along side the '65 Coronet body.
The new Sedan roof had to be slit down the center and 3 " were removed,
so it can be angled into the front of the 1/4 panel. Here's how all the Pillars
fit into the body.
On the real car, notice how the roof has a seam along the trunk & sail panel.
Our model will have the same !
The new sedan roof is finished !
MASTER MODEL IS FINISHED !
#SC- 47 ....... $48.00
This
model will come with the same parts as the '65 Dodge Coronet Hardtop A/FX
Were
going back to the original Master Model and re-designing it to be more accurate
and to include an A/FX Chassis !
The inside of the original
body was too thick, so it was "SUPER THINNED" and now its as thin
as a Plastic kit model !
The body was completely sanded smooth to remove any imperfections !
The original hood supports fit very poorly because we didn't have the hood from
the original model ( that's another long story ), so we added all new correct
hood supports.
The Block-outs from the bumper holes in the front splash pan were added, to
more accurately resemble the "Alan Green Chevrolet" car. Also, a radiator
/ fender support was added for strength & appearance.
The rear window was opened up correctly. Bumper mount holes were added to the
rear valance, and a licence plate recessed area was put in (as photo of real
car shows). The Alan Green car has a parachute surround on the trunk deck ,
so we will add that as a separate item !
We'll be adding an Altered Wheelbase Chassis to this kit. Starting with an amt.
'66 Chevy Nova SS, ( you'll need that kit to use as a donor for Interior, Motor
& Chassis parts. Photo shown is a stock '66 Nova Chassis (not altered yet).
15 scale inches were removed from the mid-section of the floor pan. The wheel
wells were borrowed from our Square Tube Chassis, and installed at the same
place as the original wheel wells. Extra frame rails were added to the Chassis
using plastic strips.
The gas tank and trunk floor was removed and a new trunk floor pan was installed
using some Plastruct ribbed sheet. The original suspension mounts on the frame
was removed and plastic strips were added to the front frame rails. All holes
were filled with plastic round tube. As a bonus were adding the wheelie bar
mount !
Here is the finished Chevy Nova Fastback A/FX Chassis.
Were not adding the Firewall, Interior floor or the door panels, as they will
be in the donor kit anyway, along with the other parts. (
you will need to use an amt. '66 Chevy Nova SS, as a donor ).
As you can see, it's a perfect fit !
This new chassis is what I should have done to my original build, and as you
can see, I cheated and sanded down the frame rails & inner wheel wells,
so I could get the slicks to fit. This new Chassis is much more accurate as
has room for even bigger slicks, if you choose to use them ?
The original '63 Chevy II Nova Fastback's were built
by Bill Thomas.
Bill built a few of these cars to be used for the NASCAR and the Drag Racing
Circuit.
Later, some of these cars ran with '65 Nova Front fenders & Grill, but kept
the '63 Body.
This is the reason behind us creating a separate '63 & '65 Grill !
After finding an original amt '63 Nova grill, the grill & bumper were separated.
Using a '65 Nova grill/bumper from the Chevy II Funny car, the grill & bumper
were also separated.
Here's the new '63 & '65 Grills, in the progress of adding block out headlight
covers.
Also: the '65 Nova bumper has been modified with longer sides and bumper mounts.
The side marker light holes in the body, will have to
be filled if using the '65 Grill !
We went back to the front valance, to make it fit the new grills by adding plastic
strips, and cutting correct holes to recreate the original valance.
.010 sheet plastic will be added to the back of the valance later.
After being asked
several times about how to build the Parachute & Surround for the Alan Green
Car,
it was decided we had to make one !
Starting with an old
mpc parachute, I made a mold and cast a few up, then the sides were sanded down,
to make it smaller. We added .030 x .100 plastic strip all around the parachute
for a surround.
Here's the new Parachute with Surround
( this will be a separate item, NOT molded to the body ) .
We also felt it unnecessary to cast the taillights separately because they were
so small, and it would be easier to just foil them while on the body.
MASTER MODEL IS FINISHED !
............................................................................................................................
'63 Grill .............. '65 Grill& Bumper
Starting with our '65 Ply
Belvedere A/FX resin body, the Hardtop roof was removed and a filler panel was
cut from 0.30 Plastic sheet, and was given' a slight arch to match the top of
the body.
To make the tonnue cover look like sheet metal, 0.10 plastic sheet was cut and
formed to the top of the body.
Just need to clean it up now !
Evergreen plastic 1/2" TUBE was used for the Canopy, the tube was cut in
half, and then shaped on an angle and sloped down, to create the point. You
can see the pencil tracings where the blue racing stripes would be located.
This was done to insure a correct location for the canopy and hole for driver.
Now its starting to look like the" MELROSE MISSILE" !
You can also see the tracing for the bullet shaped cowl.......
soon to come.
The interior tub & chassis was installed to measure were the dash would
line up with the new cowl.The headrest was filled in with sheet plastic, the
hole for the driver was cut out and New door lines were scribed in.
The Canopy was hollowed out from the bottom for realism and to save on weight
and resin !
The rear valance was slightly rolled, and rear 1/4 panels were slightly re-shaped.
My initial plan was to include the rear "AIR FOIL" but, after finding
this rare photo(below), it would have been to hard to do the paint job with
the Air Foil on it.....So instead, I added hinges to be able to mount an aluminum
sheet rear foil to the new hinges on a 45 degree angle.
At this point the master is finished, other than priming & polishing !
MASTER
MODEL IS FINISHED !
This model will come with the same parts as the '65 Plymouth
Belvedere & Sedan A/FX
#SC-36 ....... $48.00
Mastered by: Ron Ramsey and Scott Kapellusch
Ron
has passed the master over to us to rework some issues, such as:
Chassis / Interior tub, Dash, Front frame clip &
extra body modifications.
Ron Ramsey
started this Interior tub by using the center of our Speed City Long Nose
Mustang F/C Interior tub. He added width to all the sides of the Chassis floor
with sheet plastic. Then added his own door panels ( Copying a stock '66 Barracuda
interior tub ).
amt. Wheel wells were installed as well as a new firewall & Trunk shield.
He left the clean up to us.
A Dash was reworked from
the amt H.U.G. kit, and we added a Steering Column Box, to match the Dash
of the of the Sox & Martin Cuda as shown in this photo below.
New frame rails were added
to the Chassis in alignment with the Frame Clip from our '65 Gene Snow Rambunctious
Dart, we then correctly added motor mounts. Fuel tank mounts will also be
added later.
After doing some research
we realized that the amt kit got the Sail panel on the roof wrong !!!
Here is a stock 1966 barracuda, notice there is no step in the roof Sail panel,
but is more of an angle.
After stripping off the primer, tape was used to mask off the area to be puttied.
The top of the roof slanted down too much, so that was also puttied to make
a perfect transition.
Now its just perfecting the angle from top to rear.
The original amt kit drip rails were too faint and could barely make it out,
so plastic strip was used to create a new ones !
The grill was designed to match the Sox & Martin Cuda (which is what most
of us will build). Some of the
other cars were actually the old Sox car anyway.
We added under hood supports
for strength and appearance !
THE MASTER IS FINISHED !
#SC-11
Ron Ramsey stopped by to help us with this project, it was a great time and we had a lot of laughs !
After carefully planning we decided where to make the cuts on a Lindburg '64 Dodge to be grafted to our '65 Ply Belvedere AFX.
The Lindburg '64 Dodge
(above) gave up its roof to put on our "Speed City" '65 Belvedere
A/FX body (below).
Here is the '64 Dodge Sedan roof being
test fitted to our '65 Ply Belvedere AFX body.
The rear of the '64 Dodge roof needed to be cut down the middle of the window
trim & trunk, so it could be widened to correctly fit the '65 Ply body.
NEW '65 Ply Sedan A/FX will come with "CORRECT" Body, Hood, Grill, Bumpers, Taillights, Interior Tub, Dash & Chassis.
There were things we couldn't do to the original Charlie Allen Dart, because of all the other models we wanted to build from it. but since this will be an all new tool, we want to create an all out correct body !
Such as: Hogging out the front of both front & rear wheel wells, cutting a hole in the cowl & hood for the injector stacks and scribing a new straight door line for the flip front end.
Using the new chassis from
our '65 Dart AFX, we needed to bring back the rear of the chassis (to stock
wheel base position), and lengthen the front of the chassis. the tail piece
was removed and we added a new section of interior/ chassis floor the the old
'65 Dart chassis using a '71 Ply Duster 340 to give it length.
The area for the new motor surround has been cut out in this photo.
Here is the new fire wall with motor surround, and the updated Dash Cowl(with
scoop).
Starting with the '65 Dart AFX door panels (shown on top), the chrome trim was
removed, the wheel well area had to be lengthened, as well as some minor trim
inserts. Old door lines were filled in and new door lines had to be scribed.
This Square tube frame was
designed from the original frame I built for my personal build up.
Were also adding a set of "Malco Willys Gasser" Rear leaf springs, to use as the front leaf springs on the new frame.
Here is the new Interior tub
!
Here is the new chassis with square tube frame (with motor mount location pins)
and Front leaf springs.
The new Charlie Allen "PURPLE
TERROR" body....... now with correct body modifications
!
Recommended
donor is an amt. '71 Plymouth Duster 340 for rear suspension. Any Hemi motor
will do !
3/32" Plastic tube will be needed for the front axle.
MASTER IS FINISHED !
We decided NOT to
use the Polar Lights Coronet because of all the bad reviews it received.
I personally never bothered buying one, hearing it was too toy looking and out
of proportion.
Our 1965 Dodge Coronet A/FX will be designed from 2 original amt. bodies !
Don't
worry, only one was worth saving, the other will be for patch panels.
The entire stock Coronet body was cleaned up of all original defects (such as sink holes, Parting lines, A-Pillar problems,Mounting Pins, Etc.) Then all the trim, moldings & emblems were removed, except the 500 trunk emblem and Rocker Panel Trim. That was left for alignment for the wheel well alterations.
Tail lights have been corrected for this model were designing, also by adding
a corrected stock trunk molding. It just needs to be fine tuned at this point
!
The original amt. hood had a Blower hole that was in-correct, so after measuring
it to fit Fuel Injectors, the sides were filled in with sheet plastic.
Rear Wheel wells were "CORRECTLY"
measured and taped off.
you can see the Patch Panel we used
from the other '65 Coronet amt body in the back ground.
Front Wheel wells were "CORRECTLY" measured and taped off.
We now have a totally correct
wheel base (Front & Rear).
Adding a bead of super glue to all the joints, we now come to the hard part, sanding it all to perfection !
Every amt. Coronet I have ever seen has a factory flaw on the Hood support,
This was filled in with a small piece of sheet plastic.
The
Points on the fenders were too sharp and would break very easily, so we created
an insert behind the bumper location.
The loops for the bumpers to be attached were also weak,
so we wrapped sheet plastic around them and connected them to the new bumper
molding.
Because some cars ran a single headlight grill and some ran a double, we decided to include both grills with our model !
The grill we started
with was too short, so it needed a small strip a plastic all around the edge
of the frame, then it needed putty to re-form the lip around the sides. Also
you can see were adding Cone Shaped Block out head lights to the single headlight
grill, these headlights had to be re-sized to fit the headlight buckets.
Here is the double headlight
grill getting the same treatment
!
New Single & Double Headlight grills with Correct Cone Shaped Blockouts
!
The 1965 License plate was
removed from the front bumper and then we created the correct vent grooves.
The rear bumper had its 1965
License plate removed as well, along with the original screw mounts.
A new mount was then added.
It's not understood
why amt. didn't add window & door trim on their Coronet when it clearly
shows it on the box art for both Ramchargers & Color Me Gone cars. After
reviewing all the '65 Coronet Funny Cars that ran, it was decided that they
all had some sort of window or door trim, or at least they still had the molding
that the trim would have been attached to !
The way we plan to do it, you will be able to build any Funny Car car you want,
but may need to remove some trim, depending on the car you decide to build ?
But, its easier to remove some trim, rather than add it !
To do the door trim, we started with .020 x .100 evergreen plastic strip, then
2 strips of .010 x .040 (shown in the middle) these were glued side by side
leaving a small gap to simulate a weather strip (shown on top).
The window trim is .030 x
.040 plastic strip, this will be the same thickness as the new door trim.
New Window and Door Trim,
but still needs a little Liquid glue to fill the cracks and some minor sanding.
We also fixed the
drip rails on the left side A-pillar that was barely visible on the amt. model.
Here is the finished body
ready for its first shot of primer, it will then be checked for any minor imperfections,
re-sanded, primed and then polished to a high gloss.
Starting with our '65 Plymouth
A/FX interior tub (bottom of photo) , the door panels were removed.
Then the door panels from the amt. '65 Coronet were removed from the tub (top
of photo).
The arm rests and window cranks were carefully removed.
Holes were drilled for the
locations of the arm rests, window cranks.
The door handles were taken
from the Ply AFX door panels & glued to the NEW Coronet door panels for
more realism.
We have a new '65 Dodge Coronet
A/FX interior tub !
The master is finished, Unfortunately my photo's don't do it justice.
Resin kit includes correct: Body, (with window & door trim & Corrected Tail Lights, ). Hood, A.W.B. Chassis, Interior tub, Coronet Dash, Single Headlight grill, Double Headlight grill, F&R Bumpers.
You can set the height of the front end by adding plastic blocks as "risers" to the kit suspension, or use a dropped axle from a Revell '51 Ford Anglia, '51 Henry J, '29 Ford or Custom pick up, kit.
This is the original mpc. body parts.
A- Pillars were added to the the body mid-section.
The rear Valance Panel was removed & will be a separate piece !
The original rear wheel wells did not have a flare, so masking tape was applied
and was cut out for the shape of the flare. Then it was puttied, after removing
tape, it was sanded and shaped !
New Re-shaped wheel wells !
The front wheel wells were moved forward 12 scale inches, just as the real car
was !
A piece of sheet plastic will be needed for the patch panel.
This is what the stock mpc.body looked like before Wheel well alteration.
Here's the New "ALTERED" Front Wheel Wells, Now its looking like a
Funny Car !!!
A filler panel was needed for the cowl, as the original mpc kit was incorrect.
Shown on top is the original mpc. Flying Dutchman F/C frame, the lower frame
has been stretched to fit the new Altered Body and a new mount was installed
to fit the Radius Rods from a "Model King" GTO Funny Car or the Kenz
& Leslie Cougar F/C. Either kit can be used and will be needed as a Donor
model !
Master is finished !
Resin
kit comes with Accurate: Body, Floor Pan, Interior Tin, Fire wall, Rear Hinge,
2- Frame Rails, Splash Pan, Rear Valence,
&
Roll Bar.
#SC- 12 ......... $42.00
...................................................................................................................
This body was mastered by someone else, and although it was still better than the competitors, It wasn't perfect.
A new mold for this item needs to be made and after closer examination, some issues needed to be addressed.
The
front & rear wheel flares were somewhat washed out, so Evergreen putty was
used to build them up.
Also the front wheel wells were moved forward by another 3 scale inches.
The
entire body went through a complete re-surfacing.
I wanted to have a separate grill & front bumper, so one bumper was scraped
to save the grill and One grill was scrapped to save the front bumper !
Of all photos I've seen of these A/FX car's, not one had headlights, but all
had cone shaped headlight covers.
Thankfully
I have these, so the headlights were drilled out and the block-out's were put
in.
Look at a real '65 Plymouth Grill, notice the middle body valance.... under
the grill.
This was not on the original Johan '65 Ply model kit body, and it wasn't noticeable
on the" Grill / bumper part" either !
Count less hours were spent on redesigning the front of the 1/4 panels to perfectly
match the new separate grill !
The correct spear molding was not on the original kit, so a little putty &
carefully taping & sanding and there it is !
Windshield
wiper holes were drilled in place too !
The cowl vents were really washed out on the original kit, so I cut out a cowl
from a Johan '63 Ply Fury
resin body I had laying around. Hood
supports were put in, But later realized that the hood supports on the cowl
need to be removed so the Lindburg Firewall would fit !
The sail panel trim was also washed out, So on goes the reading glasses and
magnifying lamp for some
" Plastic surgery" !!!
The
top window trim was not very noticeable, so plastic 1/2 round was applied and
sanded down to match other trim.
You'll also notice that the B-pillars were removed............ ( because they
didn't have the proper angle )
The
new B-pillars will be done last so they don't brake during all the construction.
The top front window trim was also barely visible, 1/2 round plastic was added
and sanded to match !
The licence plate area was totally incorrect, so I cut one from the same Johan
'63 Ply Fury resin body,
Along with some plastic sheet filler panels. The molded in Taillight bezels
were also removed as I want to have separate Taillights !
The lower spear molding
on the trunk was washed out ( sanded off ) and was built up with Evergreen putty.
Bumper bolts were added to the rear bumper using PRO TECH's - PTMC 7 .040
bolt heads.
A nice added bonus feature !
I wanted to make an all new chassis for this kit as the other one didn't have
good detail and the rear
section of the chassis looked too much like a modern pro stock.
With trying to keep a stock '65 Ply chassis look, I started with a Lindburg
'64 Dodge 330 Chassis as the '64 Plymouth's had brake lines and just didn't
have the detail as the Dodge had, but there basically the same. The gas tanks
were removed on both chassis' and rear frame rail on the master was removed.
The other chassis lent its trunk section floor pan and both gas tank holes
were filled with sheet plastic. The pieces were glued together, to add length
to the new A/FX chassis.
Because the rear wheel wells were moved forward, the chassis had to have some
of the Un i-body
floor pan removed.
The Front wheel wells were moved forward and so the chassis needs to be moved
as well !
Keeping the K-member locations the same, so you can use the supplied Lindburg
kit suspension parts !
Suspension Risers (shackles) were added to the frame, Along with Shock risers......
So the( Lindburg Dodge or Ply. kit ) suspension parts would have the proper
ride height. Another fine addition, saving you tons of time by not having
to add it yourself. SEE, We think about you.......... the builder !!!
After getting some requests for an "Interior tub" with door detail
and personally test fitting the Lindburg door panels to this this int. Floor
pan, It was decided that a new Interior tub would need to be made to save
you builder's a lot of frustration !
An old amt
funny car chassis gave up its rear wheel wells, to add to our existing floor
pan.
This is the new '65 Ply Belvedere A/FX Interior tub
!
The
door panels were reworked from a Lindburg '64 Ply Belvedere and are very close
to '65 Ply door panels !
I've since taken out the window cranks after reading the story about the Belvedere
A/FXer's.
New motor Mounts were added to the stretched frame, by measuring the displacement
of the original motor mounts on the K-member, This will keep the motor at
stock displacement and height !
To
raise the front suspension, you can add pieces of plastic to all location
points on frame !
After doing extensive research !!! None of these cars had a stock hood, So
after carefully measuring where the Injectors will come through, the hole
in the hood was cut out !
Note:
A hood scoop ( if needed ) can be found in the Lindburg '64 Dodge Ramchargers
kit .
Finally, a 1965 Ply Belvedere A/FX Dash !It
was made by starting with a Lindburg '64 Ply Dash and adding Plastic Sheet
to fit the '65 Ply Cowl. (photo 3)
A new plastic insert was made to fill in the area from the original kit Instrument
Cluster. (photo 1)
New
Gadges, Including a Tachometer, Oil Pressure, Temp. & Voltage Meter. (photo
2)
You can set the height of the front end by adding plastic blocks as "risers" to the kit suspension, or use a dropped axle from a Revell '51 Ford Anglia, '51 Henry J, '29 Ford or Custom pick up, kit.
This master is finished and I guarantee it is the only correct '65 Ply A/FX Hardtop ever offered !
This NEW '65 Ply A/FX will come with "CORRECT" Body, Hood, Grill, Bumpers, Taillights, Interior Tub, Dash & Chassis.
"
YOU GET A BIGGER BANG FOR YOUR BUCK " at 
...........................................................................................
The first thing was to re-surface the entire body & Hood, Also the Inside body of the body was thinned !
A rear molding was added to the top of the rear fender...........................We
couldn't do this to the
original,
as it would have been to hard to remove it for all the other Dodge Darts that
we planned on doing !
Next, It was decided to rebuild the front wheel well as they were cut out
for the "Rambunctious Dart"
This new wheel well gives the new body some alternatives for the builder.
This is the original body with the hogged out front wheel well .
64 pieces of Evergreen & Plastruct plastic sheet, half round, strip and tube were used to complete this new chassis !
Starting with an amt/ertl '71 Plymouth Duster 340, The gas tank was removed
& all holes filled.
21 scale inches were removed from the floor pan, the chassis was then super
glued back together.
and
an extension was built to the trunk section to fill the gap.
Starting with a '66 Barracuda firewall, The side panels & holes for the
hood brackets were filled in.
all wires were sanded off, but the master cylinder, water heater housing,
ground
bolt & electronics box were left on, which gives the firewall some nice
detail !
The '71 Duster front frame clip need to be simplified for drag racing !
Extra
plastic strips were used to fill in the frame holes. and a solid square tube
was used for the front frame rail.
The door panels are all scratch built from plastic sheet, flat strip, square
strip and half round.
These are the new pieces that will be added to the '65 Dart AFX #SC-1
Check out how nice this new chassis looks, Even better than
my original chassis I built for my personal model !
The
'71 Duster rear end & suspension will fit, or you can create your own
from the parts box ?
Here's a top view showing how the Interior door panels will fit ...........
Perfect !
Door panels have braces for the dash board to be glued to......... another
bonus !
The new master is finished !
resin
kit will come with the only "CORRECT" '66 DODGE DART FUNNY CAR Body,
Chassis, Interior tub, Front grill, Bumpers, Taillights & Two ( left &
Right ) 1/4 Patch panels.
........to be used as a donor kit.
DID
WE REALLY NEED TO MAKE THE FRAME EXTENSIONS.....NO,
but
I am first & foremost a Model Builder and this is what makes "SPEED
CITY" stand out from the rest.
WE CARE ABOUT THE BUILDER AND KEEP THAT IN MIND WHEN DOING A PROJECT !
Were not out to make a quick buck , We're out to design the best product on
the market !!!
( See photo )
resin kit !!!
Unfortunately
we only Have these photos, all the In-Progress text was lost.
